A tiered dress in Japanese crinkle cotton

December 20, 2023
A tiered dress in Japanese crinkle cotton
Published on  Updated on  

Crinkle cotton dress - Hana top Pattern Scout Studio

Inspired by the stunning creations of @Sewimpatient on Instagram, I've used a crinkle cotton to turn the Hana Tank by Pattern Scout Studio into the perfect hot weather dress; a flowy, sleeveless dress with tiers which is just simply divine to wear.

(If you don't know @sewimpatient on Instagram, go check her out, I LOVE everything she makes!)

I like the look of the Hana Tank because it has a flattering V-neckline—a cut I find particularly suits me. It also comes with a button placket option which I have my eye on for a future project.

To create this dress, I simply added two tiers to the bottom, which are just gathered rectangles.

Crinkle cotton dress - Hana top Pattern Scout Studio 

Crinkle cotton dress - Hana top Pattern Scout Studio

How much fabric did I use?

I used a total of 3.25 meters of fabric, allocating 2.5 meters for the skirt and the remainder for the top. The top tier is created using two fabric widths, while the bottom uses three, each 50cm high. 

I made a size 8 for the top and could just fit the bodice pieces in one width as the fabric is only 112cm wide, so if you are making a bigger size, you'll need to account for two times the height of the bodice to get enough fabric.

The natural stretch from the crinkles meant there was no need to cut the neck and armhole bindings on the bias, I just cut them along the grain, saving on fabric.

My measurements are: 88cm bust, 73cm waist, 101cm hip, 178cm tall.

I chose Japanese crinkle cotton for its divine feel—it's like wearing a cloud!

This fabric's light, airy qualities make it perfect for hot weather, not to mention it's a dream to sew with. Plus this fabric doesn't crease!!

Crinkle cotton dress - Hana top Pattern Scout Studio

Why I love my gathering foot:

Gathers add a beautiful dimension to clothing, and my gathering foot was a saviour for creating even and fast ruffles.

When using a gathering foot, ensure you test first, as the gathers are set and not adjustable.

To create each tier, I assembled the rectangles but didn't close the last seam and gathered the edge of this long piece. The trick is to get the gathering amount just right, so you end up with a gathered piece that is at least still long enough to match the bodice or the other tier you are sewing it on. I managed to nail the gathering amount, trimming only about 5 cm from each tier to fit the bodice perfectly. I must admit this takes a bit of practice.

Worst case, if you get it wrong, you could cut off the gathered strip and try again but then your skirt becomes shorter of course. When I first started gathering with the gathering foot, I always started with pieces that were a bit taller than needed so I had a bit of buffer in case I needed to redo the gathering, as unpicking it would have been a nightmare. (I hope all this makes sense!)

Crinkle cotton dress - Hana top Pattern Scout Studio

The dress features the 'Waves - Pink' print—an abstract blend of pink, white, and dark brown. The print is beautiful but challenging to photograph, so the photos don't really do it justice.

I'm already dreaming of recreating it in a drapey viscose. There's something about the fluidity of gathers and the way the fabric falls that has me eager to start my next project.

So, if you're seeking a summer sewing project that promises comfort and ease, this dress might just be your next favourite make.

Happy sewing!

Crinkle cotton dress - Hana top Pattern Scout Studio

Published on  Updated on