Glossary
Frequently Asked Questions
Fabric Types & Substrates
What is the difference between Viscose and Rayon?
Viscose and Rayon are essentially the same fibre, made from regenerated cellulose (usually wood pulp). "Rayon" is the umbrella term used in the US, while "Viscose" is the specific type of rayon most common in Europe and Australia. Both offer a beautiful, silk-like drape and breathability, making them perfect for dresses and blouses. Explore our Viscose & Rayon Collection.
What is the difference between Velvet and Velveteen?
The main difference is the drape. Velvet is usually made from silk or synthetic blends and has a fluid, soft drape perfect for evening wear. Velveteen is made from cotton, has a shorter pile, and is stiffer and more structured, making it better suited for jackets, trousers, and children's clothes.
What is Crepe fabric?
Crepe refers to the crinkled, textured surface of the fabric, not the fibre itself. It can be made from silk, wool, or polyester. Crepe fabrics have excellent drape and resist wrinkling, making them a favourite for workwear, trousers, and skirts that need to look polished all day. See our Rayon & Viscose Crepe options.
What is Gingham fabric?
Gingham is a medium-weight, plain-weave cotton fabric characterised by a checked pattern (usually white and a bold colour). Because the yarn is dyed before weaving, the pattern is the same on both sides. It is durable, easy to sew, and perfect for summer dresses and shirts.
What is Cotton Poplin good for?
Cotton Poplin is a tightly woven, durable fabric with a smooth surface and a crisp hand. It is less prone to wrinkling than standard quilting cotton and holds pleats beautifully. It is the ideal choice for button-up shirts, structured dresses, and pyjamas. Shop our Cotton Poplin Collection.
What is Double Gauze fabric?
Double Gauze consists of two layers of fine cotton gauze tacked together with tiny, invisible stitches. This creates a fabric that is incredibly soft, breathable, and slightly spongy. It is perfect for baby clothes, summer tops, and comfortable loungewear. Discover our Double Gauze range.
What is Gabardine fabric?
Gabardine is a tough, tightly woven twill fabric known for its durability and smooth finish. It was historically used for trench coats and suits. Today, cotton gabardine is an excellent choice for trousers, skirts, and jackets that need to hold their shape and resist wear. View our Gabardine fabrics.
What is Seersucker fabric?
Seersucker is a lightweight cotton fabric with a puckered texture. This texture is created by weaving some threads tighter than others. The puckers hold the fabric away from the skin, promoting airflow, which makes it the ultimate fabric for hot summer weather. Check out our Seersucker options.
What is Cupro fabric?
Cupro is a regenerated cellulose fibre made from cotton linter (the fuzzy part of the cotton seed). It has the breathability of cotton but the drape and sheen of silk. It is often called "vegan silk" and is perfect for lining jackets or sewing luxurious dresses and blouses. Explore our Cupro Collection.
What is Lyocell (Tencel)?
Lyocell (often branded as Tencel) is a sustainable fibre made from wood pulp in a closed-loop process. It is incredibly soft, strong, and absorbent. It drapes beautifully and resists wrinkles, making it a favourite for eco-conscious sewists making dresses, shirts, and trousers. See our Lyocell & Tencel fabrics.
What is French Terry?
French Terry is a knit fabric that is smooth on the outside and has soft loops on the inside. It is lighter than fleece and more breathable, making it perfect for sweatshirts, joggers, and hoodies that can be worn year-round. Shop our French Terry range.
What is Boiled Wool?
Boiled Wool is a knit wool fabric that has been agitated in hot water to shrink and felt the fibres. This creates a dense, warm, wind-resistant fabric that does not fray. It is perfect for making coats, jackets, and cardigans with raw-edge finishes. Browse our Boiled Wool collection.
What is Bamboo Jersey?
Bamboo Jersey is a knit fabric made from bamboo pulp. It is famous for being incredibly soft, antibacterial, and moisture-wicking. It has a fluid drape and is perfect for t-shirts, underwear, and wrap dresses that feel amazing against the skin. View our Bamboo Jersey fabrics.
What is Cotton Drill?
Cotton Drill is a strong, durable fabric with a diagonal weave (twill). It is heavier than poplin but lighter than canvas. It is commonly used for workwear, trousers, and structured skirts because it holds its shape well and resists tearing. See our Twill & Drill collection.
What is Canvas fabric used for?
Canvas is a heavy-duty, plain-weave cotton fabric. It is extremely durable and sturdy, making it ideal for tote bags, aprons, upholstery, and structured jackets (like chore coats). It softens with use but maintains its strength. Shop our Canvas fabrics.
What is Corduroy?
Corduroy is a durable fabric with raised vertical ridges called "wales." It is usually made from cotton and is warm and tactile. It is perfect for autumn and winter sewing projects like pinafores, trousers, and jackets. Explore our Corduroy collection.
What is Coated Cotton?
Coated Cotton is a high-quality cotton fabric that has been treated with a thin layer of acrylic or PVC to make it water-resistant. Unlike oilcloth, it is still flexible and easy to sew. It is perfect for raincoats, cosmetic bags, and tablecloths. View our Coated Cottons.
What is Jacquard fabric?
Jacquard refers to a fabric where the pattern is woven into the cloth rather than printed on top. This creates a textured, reversible design. Jacquard knits are stable and warm, making them great for cardigans and sweaters. See our Jacquard fabrics.
What is Ribbing fabric?
Ribbing is a stretchy knit fabric with distinct vertical ridges. It has excellent recovery (it snaps back to shape), which is why it is used for cuffs, neckbands, and waistbands on sweatshirts and t-shirts. Browse our Ribbing collection.
What is Waffle Knit fabric?
Waffle Knit has a textured, grid-like surface that resembles a waffle. This texture traps air, making the fabric warm and absorbent. It is popular for thermal tops, pyjamas, and robes. Shop our Waffle Knit fabrics.
What is Brushed Sweater Knit?
Brushed Sweater Knit is a knit fabric that has been brushed on one or both sides to create a fuzzy, soft texture. It mimics the look and feel of a hand-knitted sweater but is much faster to sew. It is perfect for cosy cardigans and jumpers. View our Brushed Sweater Knits.
What is Cotton Fleece?
Cotton Fleece is a thick, warm knit fabric with a smooth face and a fuzzy, brushed back. It is the classic fabric for sweatshirts and hoodies. Unlike polyester fleece, cotton fleece is breathable and less likely to pill. Explore our Cotton Fleece.
What is Quilted Knit fabric?
Quilted Knit consists of two layers of knit fabric with a layer of batting sandwiched in between, stitched together in a pattern (often diamonds). It is warm, structured, and adds texture to garments like bomber jackets and sweatshirts. See our Quilted Knits.
What is Linen fabric?
Linen is a natural fibre made from the flax plant. It is known for its strength, breathability, and natural texture. It softens with every wash and is highly absorbent, making it the premier choice for summer clothing. Shop our extensive Linen Collection.
What is Ramie fabric?
Ramie is a natural fibre similar to linen but made from the nettle plant. It is strong, lustrous, and holds its shape well. It is often used as a sustainable alternative to linen or cotton for summer dresses and tops.
What is Lawn fabric?
Cotton Lawn is a fine, lightweight, plain-weave fabric made from high-count yarns. It has a silky, smooth hand and is slightly sheer. It is perfect for summer blouses and dresses that need to be airy but not transparent.
What is Voile fabric?
Voile is a soft, sheer fabric, usually made of cotton or cotton blends. It is lighter and more transparent than lawn. It is often used for lining dresses or making very delicate summer tops and curtains.
What is Chambray fabric?
Chambray is a plain-weave fabric woven with a coloured yarn in the warp and a white yarn in the weft. This gives it a denim-like appearance but it is much lighter and softer. It is a classic choice for shirts and summer dresses.
What is Flannel fabric?
Flannel is a soft woven fabric, usually made of cotton or wool, that has been brushed to create a fuzzy nap. This traps air and makes it warm and cosy. It is the go-to fabric for winter pyjamas and shirts.
What is Sateen fabric?
Cotton Sateen is woven using a satin weave structure, which gives it a lustrous sheen and a smooth, silky feel. It has a beautiful drape and is often used for dresses and bedding.
What is Satin fabric?
Satin refers to the weave, not the fibre. It creates a fabric with a high-gloss surface and a dull back. It can be made from silk, polyester, or acetate. It is fluid and drapey, perfect for evening wear and linings.
What is Ponte Roma fabric?
Ponte Roma (or Ponte di Roma) is a stable, double-knit fabric. It is thicker and firmer than jersey, making it easy to sew. It resists pilling and fading, making it ideal for trousers, skirts, and structured tops.
What is Interlock Knit?
Interlock is a variation of rib knit. It is a double-knit fabric that looks the same on both sides. It is thicker and more stable than jersey, and the edges don't curl, making it easier to sew for beginners.
What is Swimwear fabric?
Swimwear fabric is usually a blend of nylon or polyester with a high percentage of spandex (Lycra). It has four-way stretch and is resistant to chlorine and salt water. It requires a stretch needle and specific elastic for sewing.
What is Activewear fabric?
Activewear fabrics are technical knits designed to wick moisture, stretch with the body, and provide compression. They are often made from polyester/spandex blends and are perfect for leggings and sports bras.
What is Oilcloth?
Oilcloth was traditionally canvas treated with linseed oil. Modern oilcloth is usually cotton with a thick PVC coating. It is waterproof and wipe-clean, making it great for tablecloths and tote bags, but it can be stiff to sew.
What is Calico?
Calico is a plain-woven textile made from unbleached and often not fully processed cotton. It is inexpensive and durable, making it the standard fabric for making toiles (mock-ups) and tote bags. Browse our Calico options.
What is Drill fabric?
Drill is a stout, durable cotton fabric with a strong bias (diagonal) in the weave. It is similar to denim but usually dyed a solid colour. It is excellent for uniforms, workwear, and structured summer jackets.
What is Duck Cloth (Canvas)?
Cotton Duck (or Duck Cloth) is a heavy, plain-woven cotton fabric. It is more tightly woven than plain canvas. It is resistant to wind and water, making it suitable for outdoor gear and heavy-duty bags.
What is Towelling (Terry Cloth)?
Towelling is a fabric with loops that can absorb large amounts of water. It is usually made of cotton and is used for towels, bathrobes, and beach cover-ups.
What is Velour?
Velour is a plush, knitted fabric or textile similar to velvet or velveteen. It is usually made from cotton or synthetic blends and is stretchy, making it comfortable for loungewear and tracksuits.
What is Block Print fabric?
Block printing is a technique where wood blocks are carved with a design, dipped in dye, and stamped onto fabric by hand. It creates unique, artisanal fabrics with slight variations that add character. Shop our Block Prints.
What is Deadstock fabric?
Deadstock fabric is leftover fabric from fashion brands or textile mills that was overproduced or not used. Buying deadstock saves it from landfill. It is a sustainable way to access high-end designer fabrics.
What is OEKO-TEX certified fabric?
OEKO-TEX certification means the fabric has been tested for harmful substances and is safe for human health. It guarantees that the textile is free from toxic chemicals, making it a great choice for children's clothing.
What is GOTS certified fabric?
GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) is the worldwide leading textile processing standard for organic fibres. It ensures the fabric is organic and produced under strict social and environmental criteria.
What is Lenzing Ecovero?
Lenzing Ecovero is a sustainable viscose fibre with the lowest environmental impact in the industry. It is derived from certified renewable wood sources using an eco-responsible production process. Shop our Ecovero Viscose.
Sewing Patterns & Garment Types
What are Indie Sewing Patterns?
Indie sewing patterns are created by independent designers rather than the "Big 4" commercial pattern companies. They often feature modern styles, inclusive sizing, and detailed, beginner-friendly instructions. We stock a huge range of Indie Patterns from around the world.
What is the best fabric for a Bias Cut Skirt?
For a bias cut skirt, you need a fabric with excellent drape so it skims the body without clinging. Cupro, Viscose, Rayon, Linen, and Crepe are ideal choices. Avoid stiff fabrics like quilting cotton or heavy canvas. Browse our Viscose Collection for perfect options.
What fabric should I use for an A-Line Skirt?
A-line skirts need a bit of structure to hold their shape. Medium-weight woven fabrics like Cotton Poplin, Linen, Denim, or Corduroy work beautifully. For a softer look, a heavy Rayon Twill can also work. See our Cotton Fabrics.
What are "Easy" sewing patterns for beginners?
Easy patterns typically have few pattern pieces, simple closures (like elastic waists instead of zips), and clear instructions. Use the "Beginner" filter in our pattern catalogue. Brands like Matchy Match Sewing Club and Common Stitch are famous for their beginner-friendly designs. Shop Beginner Patterns.
What is a "Toile" or "Muslin"?
A toile (or muslin) is a test version of a garment made from cheap fabric (like Calico) to check the fit before cutting into your expensive fashion fabric. It allows you to make adjustments without fear of ruining your final project.
How do I choose the right size sewing pattern?
Ignore your ready-to-wear size! Sewing pattern sizes are different. Always measure your bust, waist, and hips, and compare them to the "Body Measurements" chart in the pattern description. If you are between sizes, you can blend between them.
What is "Ease" in a sewing pattern?
Ease is the difference between your body measurements and the finished garment measurements. "Wearing ease" allows you to move and breathe. "Design ease" is extra volume added for style (e.g., a boxy top has lots of design ease).
What is a PDF sewing pattern?
A PDF pattern is a digital file you download and print at home (on A4 paper) or at a copy shop (on A0 paper). You then tape the A4 pages together to create the full pattern sheet. It's instant gratification!
Do you sell Paper Sewing Patterns?
Yes! We stock high-quality, printed paper patterns from top indie designers. This saves you the hassle of printing and taping PDF pages together. You get a durable tissue or paper pattern ready to trace or cut. Browse our Paper Patterns.
What is a "Notion" in sewing?
Notions are all the small tools and accessories you need to complete a sewing project, other than the fabric and the machine. This includes thread, zips, buttons, elastic, interfacing, and needles. Shop our Haberdashery.
What is the best fabric for a Summer Dress?
Breathability is key! Linen, Cotton Lawn, Double Gauze, and Viscose are the best choices. They allow air to circulate and wick moisture away from the skin. Avoid 100% polyester linings which can trap heat.
What is the best fabric for Winter Pyjamas?
Flannel (brushed cotton) is the classic choice for warmth. For a stretchier option, try our Waffle Knit or a soft French Terry.
Can I sew activewear on a regular sewing machine?
Yes! You don't need an overlocker (serger). You can use a zigzag stitch or a "lightning bolt" stretch stitch on your regular machine. Using a walking foot and a stretch needle (ballpoint) will help prevent skipped stitches.
What is a "Nap" in fabric?
Nap refers to the texture or pile of a fabric that runs in one direction (like velvet, corduroy, or faux fur). When sewing with napped fabrics, you must cut all pattern pieces in the same direction, or the panels will look like different shades.
What is "Grainline"?
The grainline is the direction of the threads in a woven fabric. The "straight grain" runs parallel to the selvedge (the finished edge). Cutting "on grain" ensures your garment hangs straight and doesn't twist.
What is "Selvedge"?
The selvedge is the tightly woven finished edge of the fabric that prevents it from unravelling. It often has the manufacturer's name or colour dots printed on it. You usually cut the selvedge off before sewing.
What is "Interfacing"?
Interfacing is a material used to add stiffness and structure to parts of a garment, like collars, cuffs, and button bands. It can be fusible (iron-on) or sew-in. We recommend testing a scrap first!
What is "Staystitching"?
Staystitching is a line of straight stitching sewn through a single layer of fabric (usually around a curved neckline or waist) to prevent it from stretching out of shape while you handle it.
What is "Understitching"?
Understitching is stitching the seam allowance to the facing or lining, close to the seam line. This prevents the facing from rolling out and showing on the right side of the garment. It gives a crisp, professional edge.
What is "Topstitching"?
Topstitching is visible stitching on the outside of a garment. It can be decorative (like on jeans pockets) or functional (to hold a hem in place). A longer stitch length usually looks better for topstitching.
What is "Basting" or "Tacking"?
Basting is sewing with long, loose stitches to temporarily hold layers of fabric together. It is easy to remove and is used to check fit or hold slippery fabrics in place before final stitching.
What is a "Dart"?
A dart is a folded wedge of fabric that is stitched to shape a flat piece of fabric around a curved body part (like the bust or waist). It creates a 3D shape from 2D fabric.
What is a "Pleat"?
A pleat is a fold of fabric that is stitched or pressed into place to control fullness. Box pleats, knife pleats, and inverted pleats are common types used in skirts and dresses.
What is a "Gather"?
Gathering is a technique for shortening the length of a strip of fabric so that the longer piece can be attached to a shorter piece. It creates soft fullness and ruffles.
What is a "Facing"?
A facing is a piece of fabric used to finish raw edges of a garment, such as the neckline or armholes. It is usually interfaced and turned to the inside of the garment so it isn't visible.
What is a "Hem"?
A hem is the finished lower edge of a garment. It is usually folded up and stitched to prevent fraying. There are many types, including rolled hems, blind hems, and raw hems.
What is a "Seam Allowance"?
The seam allowance is the distance between the edge of the fabric and the stitching line. Standard commercial patterns usually use 1cm (3/8 inch) or 1.5cm (5/8 inch), but always check your pattern instructions!
What is "Grading" a seam?
Grading means trimming the seam allowances to different widths to reduce bulk. The layer closest to the garment is left longest, and the layer closest to the facing is trimmed shortest.
What is "Clipping" curves?
Clipping involves making small snips into the seam allowance of a curved seam (like a neckline) to allow the fabric to spread and lie flat when turned right side out.
What is "Notching" curves?
Notching means cutting small V-shapes out of the seam allowance on an outward curve. This removes excess bulk so the seam can lie flat when turned.
What is a "French Seam"?
A French seam is a technique where the raw edge of the seam is fully enclosed. It involves sewing the seam twice, once wrong sides together, then right sides together. It is perfect for sheer fabrics like Chiffon or Voile.
What is a "Flat Felled Seam"?
A flat felled seam is a strong, durable seam where the raw edges are enclosed and stitched flat. It is the standard seam used on jeans and men's shirts.
What is a "Rolled Hem"?
A rolled hem is a very narrow hem where the edge of the fabric is rolled under twice and stitched. It is ideal for lightweight fabrics like silk and chiffon scarves or skirts.
What is a "Blind Hem"?
A blind hem is a hem that is nearly invisible from the outside of the garment. It can be done by hand or with a special foot on your sewing machine.
What is a "Walking Foot"?
A walking foot is a sewing machine attachment that has its own set of feed dogs. It helps feed the top and bottom layers of fabric through the machine at the same speed, preventing shifting. It is essential for quilting and sewing knits or plaids.
What is a "Zipper Foot"?
A zipper foot allows you to stitch very close to the raised coil of a zipper. It can be adjusted to sew on either the left or right side of the zipper.
What is an "Overlocker" (Serger)?
An overlocker is a specialised machine that trims the raw edge of the fabric and encases it in thread loops, all in one step. It creates a professional finish and allows seams to stretch.
What is a "Coverstitch" machine?
A coverstitch machine is used to hem knit garments. It creates two parallel rows of straight stitching on the top and a loop structure on the bottom, allowing the hem to stretch without breaking.
What is "Shirring"?
Shirring is created by sewing parallel rows of straight stitching using elastic thread in the bobbin. This gathers the fabric and makes it stretchy. It is popular for summer dress bodices.
What is "Smocking"?
Smocking is an embroidery technique used to gather fabric so that it can stretch. It was traditionally used on cuffs, bodices, and necklines before elastic was invented.
What is "Patchwork"?
Patchwork is the process of sewing small pieces of fabric together to create a larger design. It is the top layer of a quilt.
What is "Quilting"?
Quilting is the process of sewing two or more layers of fabric together (usually with batting in the middle) to create a thicker, padded material. The stitching pattern can be decorative.
What is "Batting" (Wadding)?
Batting is the layer of insulation between the quilt top and the backing. It can be made from cotton, wool, polyester, or bamboo.
What is "Bias Binding"?
Bias binding is a strip of fabric cut on the bias (45-degree angle) used to bind edges or finish necklines and armholes. Because it is bias-cut, it can stretch around curves smoothly.
What is "Piping"?
Piping is a trim made of a cord wrapped in a strip of bias fabric. It is inserted into seams to define edges and add a decorative touch to cushions or garments.
Haberdashery, Tools & Techniques
What is the best thread for sewing cotton?
For sewing cotton fabrics, we recommend a high-quality polyester thread like Gutermann Sew-All. It is strong, colourfast, and has a slight give that prevents snapping. Cotton thread can also be used but is prone to shrinkage and breaking over time. Browse our Thread Collection.
What size sewing machine needle should I use?
The general rule is: the finer the fabric, the smaller the needle. For lightweight cottons (lawn, voile), use a size 70/10. For medium-weight fabrics (poplin, linen), use a size 80/12. For heavy fabrics (denim, canvas), use a size 90/14 or 100/16.
What is a "Universal" needle?
A Universal needle has a slightly rounded point that is sharp enough to pierce woven fabrics but rounded enough to slip between the loops of some knits. It is a great all-purpose needle for most woven fabrics and stable knits.
What is a "Ballpoint" (Jersey) needle?
A Ballpoint needle has a rounded tip designed to slide between the loops of knit fabrics (like jersey) without piercing or breaking the fibres. This prevents holes and runs in your fabric. Essential for sewing t-shirts!
What is a "Stretch" needle?
A Stretch needle is similar to a ballpoint but has a special scarf (indentation) that prevents skipped stitches on highly elastic fabrics like swimwear (Lycra/Spandex) or elastic.
What is a "Microtex" (Sharp) needle?
A Microtex needle has a very sharp, acute point. It is designed for precise stitching on fine, densely woven fabrics like silk, microfibre, and coated materials. It creates perfectly straight stitches.
What is a "Jeans" (Denim) needle?
A Jeans needle has a very strong, sharp point and a reinforced shaft to penetrate thick layers of denim or canvas without bending or breaking.
What is a "Leather" needle?
A Leather needle has a cutting point (like a spear) that slices through leather or vinyl. Never use it on knit or woven fabrics as it will cut the yarns!
How often should I change my sewing machine needle?
We recommend changing your needle after every major project (approx. 8-10 hours of sewing). A dull or bent needle can cause skipped stitches, fabric damage, and even damage your machine.
What are "Glass Head" pins?
Glass head pins have a head made of glass rather than plastic. This means you can iron over them without the heads melting onto your fabric or iron soleplate. They are a must-have for any sewist.
What is a "Rotary Cutter"?
A rotary cutter is a tool with a circular blade that rolls along the fabric. It allows you to cut multiple layers accurately and quickly. It must always be used with a self-healing cutting mat.
What is a "Self-Healing" cutting mat?
A self-healing mat is made of a material that closes up after being cut with a rotary blade. It protects your table surface and keeps your blade sharp.
What are "Fabric Shears"?
Fabric shears are scissors specifically designed for cutting fabric. They have long, sharp blades and offset handles so you can cut along a table surface without lifting the fabric. Never use them on paper!
What are "Pinking Shears"?
Pinking shears have zig-zag blades. Cutting the raw edge of woven fabric with them creates a zig-zag edge that helps prevent fraying. It is a quick and easy seam finish.
What are "Thread Snips"?
Thread snips are small, spring-loaded scissors used for trimming threads at the machine. They are faster and more precise than using large shears for small snips.
What is a "Seam Ripper"?
A seam ripper is a small tool with a sharp point and a curved blade used to unpick stitches. It is every sewist's best friend (and most used tool!).
What is a "Seam Gauge"?
A seam gauge is a small ruler with a sliding marker. It is used to measure hems, seam allowances, and buttonhole spacing accurately.
What is "Tailor's Chalk"?
Tailor's chalk is a hard, flat piece of chalk used to mark fabric. It brushes off easily. It comes in various colours, but always test on a scrap first to ensure it removes cleanly.
What is a "Chaco Liner"?
A Chaco liner is a pen-style tool that dispenses powdered chalk through a small wheel. It creates very fine, precise lines that are easy to brush away.
What is a "Water Soluble" marker?
A water-soluble marker has ink that disappears when touched with water. It is great for marking embroidery designs or buttonholes, but be careful not to iron over the marks before removing them, as heat can set the ink.
What is "Frixion" pen for sewing?
Frixion pens are heat-erasable pens. The ink disappears when ironed. However, the ink can reappear in very cold temperatures, so test carefully on visible areas!
What is a "Thimble"?
A thimble is a protective cap worn on the finger to push the needle through fabric when hand sewing. It prevents painful pricks and allows you to sew through thick layers.
What is "Beeswax" used for in sewing?
Beeswax is used to coat hand-sewing thread. It strengthens the thread, prevents tangling, and helps it glide through the fabric smoothly.
What is a "Bodkin"?
A bodkin is a tool used to thread elastic, ribbon, or cord through a casing (like a waistband). It grips the end of the elastic so you can pull it through easily.
What is a "Loop Turner"?
A loop turner is a long, thin wire with a hook at the end. It is used to turn narrow tubes of fabric (like spaghetti straps or rouleau loops) right side out.
What is a "Bias Tape Maker"?
A bias tape maker is a small metal tool that folds fabric strips into bias binding as you pull them through and iron them. It speeds up the process of making your own binding.
What is a "Pressing Ham"?
A tailor's ham is a tightly stuffed, ham-shaped cushion used to press curved seams (like darts, sleeves, and collars) so they maintain their 3D shape.
What is a "Sleeve Board"?
A sleeve board looks like a miniature ironing board. It is used to press narrow tubes like sleeves and pant legs without creasing the other side.
What is a "Clapper" (Tailor's Clapper)?
A clapper is a block of hardwood used to flatten seams and creases. You press the seam with steam, then immediately press the clapper down on it to trap the heat and moisture, creating a crisp, flat edge.
What is "Fusible Web" (Vliesofix)?
Fusible web is a sheet of adhesive that melts when ironed. It is used to bond two layers of fabric together, often for appliqué or hemming. It usually has a paper backing.
What is "Hemming Tape" (Wundaweb)?
Hemming tape is a strip of fusible web used to hem garments without sewing. It is great for quick fixes or heavy fabrics where stitching might show.
What is a "Snap Fastener" (Popper)?
A snap fastener is a pair of interlocking discs used to close a garment. They can be sewn on or applied with a hammer/pliers.
What is a "Hook and Eye"?
A hook and eye is a small metal fastener used to hold finished edges together, usually at the top of a zip or on a waistband, where there is tension.
What is a "D-Ring"?
A D-ring is a D-shaped metal or plastic ring used for adjustable straps, belts, and bag handles.
What is "Interfacing" weight?
Interfacing comes in different weights: light, medium, and heavy. Always choose an interfacing that is slightly lighter than your fashion fabric so it doesn't change the drape too much.
What is "Tricot" Interfacing?
Tricot interfacing is a knit fusible interfacing. It has stretch, making it perfect for knit fabrics or soft, drapey wovens where you want support without stiffness.
What is "Stabiliser"?
Stabiliser is a material used to support fabric during embroidery or machine stitching to prevent puckering or stretching. It can be tear-away, cut-away, or wash-away.
What is "Tear-Away" Stabiliser?
Tear-away stabiliser is paper-like and can be torn away easily after stitching. It is used for stable woven fabrics.
What is "Cut-Away" Stabiliser?
Cut-away stabiliser is a permanent backing that must be cut away with scissors. It provides the most support and is essential for embroidery on knit fabrics to prevent stretching.
What is "Wash-Away" Stabiliser?
Wash-away stabiliser dissolves completely in water. It is used for lace making, freestanding embroidery, or delicate fabrics where you don't want any residue left.
What is "Spray Starch"?
Spray starch is used to stiffen fabric temporarily. It makes slippery fabrics (like silk or rayon) easier to cut and sew. It washes out in the laundry.
What is "Fray Check"?
Fray Check is a liquid seam sealant that prevents fabric edges from fraying. It dries clear and is great for reinforcing buttonholes or raw edges.
What is "Fabric Glue"?
Fabric glue is a permanent or temporary adhesive for bonding fabric. It is useful for placing pockets, hems, or trims before sewing.
What is a "Walking Foot" used for?
A walking foot is essential for quilting and sewing multiple layers. It feeds the top and bottom fabric layers evenly, preventing shifting and puckering.
What is a "Ruffler Foot"?
A ruffler foot is a specialised attachment that automatically pleats or gathers the fabric as you sew. It saves hours of time when making ruffles!
What is a "Binder Foot"?
A binder foot folds and applies bias binding to the edge of your fabric in one step. It takes some practice but gives a very professional finish.
What is a "Buttonhole Foot"?
A buttonhole foot measures the size of your button and automatically sews a buttonhole to the correct length. Most modern machines come with one.
What is a "Button Sewing Foot"?
A button sewing foot holds a button in place so your machine can stitch it on for you. It is a huge time saver for shirts and dresses!
General Sewing & Brand Specifics
Is MaaiDesign an Australian fabric store?
Yes! MaaiDesign is a proudly Australian-owned online fabric store based in Victoria. We specialise in high-quality, modern dressmaking fabrics and independent sewing patterns. We ship Australia-wide and internationally.
Where can I buy Atelier Brunette fabric in Australia?
MaaiDesign is a leading stockist of Atelier Brunette fabrics in Australia. We carry their full range of sustainable Viscose, Cotton, and Buttons, known for their cohesive colour palettes and modern prints.
Do you stock Merchant & Mills fabrics?
Yes, we love the rugged, timeless aesthetic of Merchant & Mills. We stock their European linens, oilskins, and organic cottons, along with their popular sewing patterns. Browse our Merchant & Mills Collection.
Can I buy See You At Six fabrics online?
Absolutely. We are the major stockist of See You At Six fabrics. Their high-quality linen viscose and French Terry collections launch seasonally and sell out fast, so sign up for our newsletter to be the first to know!
What is "Good Earth Cotton"?
Good Earth Cotton is the world's first climate-positive cotton, grown right here in Australia. It sequesters more carbon than it emits. We are proud to stock this revolutionary, traceable fibre. Explore Good Earth Cotton.
Do you have a physical fabric store?
We are primarily an online store, which allows us to offer the widest range of fabrics to sewists everywhere. However, we do offer studio visits by appointment for those who want to see and feel the fabrics in person.
How do I order fabric samples?
We understand that feeling the fabric is important! You can order a sample of almost any fabric on our website. Look for the "Order Sample" button on the product page. This helps you check the colour and weight before committing to a full cut.
What is your minimum fabric cut?
Our minimum cut is 25cm. After that, you can order in 25cm increments (e.g., 0.5m, 0.75m, 1m). All fabric is cut as one continuous piece, so if you order 4 units of 25cm, you will receive a single 1-metre length.
Do you ship internationally?
Yes, we ship our beautiful fabrics and patterns worldwide! Shipping rates are calculated at checkout based on the weight of your order.
How quickly do you dispatch orders?
We pride ourselves on fast dispatch. Most orders are cut and shipped within 1-2 business days. You will receive a tracking number as soon as your parcel is on its way.
What is your return policy?
We want you to be happy with your fabric! We offer a 30-day return policy on full-priced items, provided the fabric is uncut and unwashed. Please note that sewing patterns and sale items are generally excluded from returns.
Do you offer gift cards?
Yes! A MaaiDesign Gift Card is the perfect gift for the sewist in your life. They are delivered instantly by email and can be used to purchase anything in our store.
How do I wash my fabric?
We always recommend pre-washing your fabric in the same way you intend to wash the finished garment. This allows for any initial shrinkage (especially in cotton, linen, and viscose) before you cut and sew.
What does "GSM" mean in fabric?
GSM stands for "Grams per Square Metre." It indicates the weight of the fabric. Lower GSM (e.g., 80-120) means a lightweight fabric like voile or lawn. Medium GSM (130-200) is standard for quilting cotton and linen. High GSM (250+) indicates a heavy fabric like canvas or denim.
What is "Drape" in fabric?
Drape refers to how a fabric hangs and flows. A fabric with "high drape" (like rayon or silk) flows over the body and creates soft folds. A fabric with "low drape" (like quilting cotton or canvas) stands away from the body and holds a structured shape.
What is "Hand" in fabric?
"Hand" describes how a fabric feels against the skin. Is it crisp, soft, rough, smooth, cool, or warm? For example, linen has a "crisp, cool hand," while brushed cotton has a "soft, warm hand."
What is "Warp" and "Weft"?
Warp threads run vertically (lengthwise) along the fabric, parallel to the selvedge. Weft threads run horizontally (crosswise) from selvedge to selvedge. The warp is usually stronger and has less stretch than the weft.
What is "Bias"?
The bias is the 45-degree angle across the warp and weft threads. Fabric has the most stretch and drape along the bias. Cutting "on the bias" creates garments that hug curves beautifully.
What is "Sustainable" fabric?
Sustainable fabrics are produced with minimal environmental impact. This includes organic fibres (grown without pesticides), regenerated fibres (like Tencel/Lyocell), and deadstock fabrics (saving waste from landfill). We prioritise stocking Natural & Sustainable Fabrics.
What is "Oeko-Tex Standard 100"?
This is a certification that ensures every component of a textile (fabric, thread, buttons) has been tested for harmful substances and is safe for human health. It is a great standard to look for, especially for baby clothes.
What is "Organic Cotton"?
Organic cotton is grown without the use of toxic pesticides or synthetic fertilizers. It uses less water than conventional cotton and is better for the soil and the farmers.
What is "Deadstock" fabric?
Deadstock is surplus fabric from the fashion industry that was not used. By buying deadstock, we prevent high-quality fabric from going to waste. It is often limited edition—once it's gone, it's gone!
Why is Linen expensive?
Linen is made from the flax plant, which is labour-intensive to grow and process. The fibres are difficult to weave without breaking, requiring slower production speeds. However, its durability and longevity make it a worthwhile investment.
Does Linen shrink?
Yes, linen can shrink by 5-10% on the first wash. Always pre-wash and dry your linen fabric before cutting out your pattern to avoid disappointment later!
Does Viscose shrink?
Yes, viscose is prone to shrinking, sometimes up to 10%. It can also become stiff when wet but softens again once dry. Pre-washing is essential.
Can I sew knits without an overlocker?
Yes! You can sew knit fabrics on a regular sewing machine using a zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch. A walking foot and ballpoint needle will make the process much easier.
What is "Pre-washing"?
Pre-washing means washing and drying your fabric before you cut and sew it. This removes any chemical sizing from the manufacturing process and allows the fabric to do its initial shrinking. We always recommend pre-washing your fabric before starting your sewing project.
How do I store my fabric stash?
Store fabric away from direct sunlight to prevent fading. Folding it neatly on shelves or rolling it can prevent deep creases. Some sewists organise by colour, others by fabric type (knits vs. wovens).
What is a "Fat Quarter"?
A fat quarter is a quarter-metre of fabric cut as a square (usually 50cm x 55cm) rather than a long thin strip (25cm x 110cm). It is popular for quilting and small craft projects.
What is "Width of Fabric" (WOF)?
WOF is the usable width of the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. Standard quilting cotton is usually 110-112cm wide, while apparel fabrics are usually between 140-150cm wide, with some knits going up to 200cm. Always check the width when calculating how much fabric you need!
How much fabric do I need for a dress?
It depends on the style and size! A simple shift dress might need 1.5-2 metres, while a maxi dress with a full skirt could need 3-4 metres. Always check the "Fabric Requirements" chart on your pattern.
How much fabric do I need for a shirt?
A standard button-up shirt usually requires 1.5-2.5 metres of fabric, depending on the sleeve length and pattern matching requirements.
How much fabric do I need for trousers?
A pair of trousers typically requires 1.5-2.5 metres of fabric. Wide-leg styles will need more than slim-fit styles.
What is "Pattern Matching"?
Pattern matching is the process of aligning the print (like stripes or checks) across the seams of a garment so the design looks continuous. This requires extra fabric and careful cutting.
What is "Directional Print"?
A directional print has a clear "up" and "down" (e.g., trees or animals standing up). You must cut all pattern pieces facing the same way, or some will be upside down!
What is "Nap" layout?
A "with nap" layout means placing all pattern pieces in the same direction on the fabric. This is necessary for directional prints and napped fabrics like velvet or corduroy.
What is "Cross-Grain" cutting?
Cutting on the cross-grain means placing the pattern pieces perpendicular to the selvedge (along the weft). This is sometimes done to use a border print or change the direction of stripes.
What is "Colour Blocking"?
Colour blocking is using solid blocks of different colours in a single garment to create a bold, graphic look. It is a great way to use up scraps!
What is "Upcycling"?
Upcycling is taking an existing item (like a thrifted tablecloth or old jeans) and refashioning it into something new and higher value. It is a sustainable way to sew.
What is "Slow Fashion"?
Slow fashion is a movement advocating for manufacturing with respect to people, the environment, and animals. It opposes the "fast fashion" model of cheap, disposable clothing. Sewing your own clothes is a key part of slow fashion!
What is a "Capsule Wardrobe"?
A capsule wardrobe is a curated collection of essential, versatile clothing items that can be mixed and matched to create many outfits. Sewing a capsule wardrobe allows you to choose colours and fits that work perfectly for you.
What is "Me Made May"?
Me Made May is an annual challenge on social media where sewists pledge to wear their handmade items more often during the month of May. It celebrates the joy of making your own clothes.
How do I join the sewing community?
The online sewing community is huge and welcoming! Search hashtags like #sewistsofinstagram, #memade, and #indiesewing on Instagram. You can also join our online sewing community called Modern Makers.
Do you offer sewing classes?
We occasionally host workshops and events. Sign up for our newsletter or follow us on social media to be notified.
Can I visit your studio?
Yes! We welcome visitors to our studio in Bright, Victoria by appointment. It's a great opportunity to see the fabrics in person and get advice on your projects.
Do you sell gift vouchers?
Yes, we offer digital gift vouchers that can be emailed directly to the recipient. They are the perfect gift for the fabric lover who has everything!
How do I contact MaaiDesign?
You can contact us via the contact form on our website or email us directly at hello@maaidesign.com.au. Or you can call us on 0493 679 733. We are always happy to help with fabric advice or order queries.