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Morgan Boyfriend Jeans

Posted by Maaike Baudry on

Morgan Boyfriend Jeans Closet Case Patterns

After three years of talking about it, it was time to make it happen.

I finally sewed myself a pair of jeans!

It is well and truly my proudest sewing achievement to date.

My last jeans shopping trip was so frustrating, finding a well-fitting pair is nearly impossible. 

(Dear Fashion Industry, not everyone looks good in skinny jeans!)

That's probably why I've always considered sewing jeans somehow the ultimate sewing challenge, either too hard, too likely to fail.

The fit really needs to be really good...

I enrolled in the Jeans making course from Closet Case Patterns because I wanted to make sure I got the pattern adjustments right to get that really good fit. 

I found the course really helpful, and learned quite a bit about sewing jeans in general.

I made the Morgan Boyfriend Jeans by Closet Case Patterns. From experience, her pattern drafting is top notch, and again she did not disappoint here.

(Dear Fashion Industry, not everyone looks good in skinny jeans!)

After cutting my pieces, I basted the whole pair together (apart from the back pockets) to check the fit. I made a few adjustments (see summary below) and then had to take the whole thing apart again. But it was worth it. Hello, non-gaping jeans!!

I still can't believe how well they fit, how comfy they are and that they haven't become baggy either after wearing (which used to happen all the time with store-bought jeans).

So in the end, it wasn't all that hard. It's just about taking the time to learn how to do the pattern adjustments and taking the time to make a test pair. Now I can make many more.

 Morgan Boyfriend Jeans Closet Case Patterns

I used a button fly which is apparently easier to sew than the zipper fly.

Adding the rivets was fun and makes the jeans look professional.

I rubbed edges with some sandpaper to give the jeans a bit more character. The real worn look will have to develop over time. I didn't dare run the sandpaper over the front or back of the leg of my brand new jeans!

If you're after some tips on how to distress jeans, have a look here.

Morgan Boyfriend Jeans Closet Case Patterns

Morgan Boyfriend Jeans Closet Case Patterns

And then for the final detail, I wanted a leather patch with something fun on it.

So I decided to emboss it with "Maai Jeans" as you should never take yourself too seriously! :-) Indeed "Maai" is pronounced just like "My". 

Morgan Boyfriend Jeans Closet Case Patterns

I found this youtube video on how you can do this yourself at home.

I basically wet a piece of leather I had in my stash (but tried it on a test piece first), created a stamp with cookie stamp letters, and used a bench vice as a press and left if in there for about 24hrs (until the leather was dry). Don't take it out too soon or the embossing will reset.

Morgan Boyfriend Jeans Closet Case Patterns

This leather was quite thin, so I can sew with it on a regular sewing machine. 

It's either goat or kangaroo, I can't quite remember.

The leather did stretch while I was sewing it on as you can see in the picture. I've since fixed that up as the distortion would have bugged me forever. 

Morgan Boyfriend Jeans Closet Case Patterns

A few other things I've learned along the way:

- If you can, set up 2 sewing machines as that will save you a lot of time. Otherwise, you will be forever changing between regular thread and topstitching thread.

- Hammering the thick areas down before topstitching really makes a big difference! 

- Take the time to test your topstitching and bar tacks, it's really worth it. Check which length and thread tension works best.

- I chose not to interface the waistband, but will probably do that next time.

Project summary:

Sewing pattern: Morgan Boyfriend Jeans by Closet Case Files

Hardware: Antique Bronze

Thread: Denim Top Stitching Thread 2040 (regular thread for seams)

Fabric: Cone Mills Rigid 10.5 oz Indigo denim

The top is also me-made, it's the Geneva Raglan Tee by Named Patterns, in a heavy bamboo jersey (colour Rosy).

Pattern size and adjustments:

- Waist size 8, graded to size 12 at hip.

- Added 3 cm in length to the legs. This allows me to roll the hem or not, whatever I feel like on the day. :)

- Added a dart to the waistband at the back to take out 3cm in the length of the top of the waistband to stop the jeans from gaping. I did that at the end (seam is hidden by the belt loop anyway), but will adjust the pattern piece for my next pair.

My measurements are: I'm 178cm tall (but long upper body - I add 4cm to all my tops) waist 73cm, hip 100cm.


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4 comments

  • Thank you Tamara! Yes, I intend on never buying RTW jeans again!
    I have these plastic plates that came with my sewing machine that I can use to lift the foot when sewing over thick pieces of denim. I wrongly assumed that all sewing machines came with these!!

    Maaike van Besien on
  • Hi Kate!
    Thank you for sharing your tips. You reminded me about hammering those bulky seams! That makes such a big difference indeed and I’ve added that tip to the blog post now.
    So glad to hear you are turning those Cone Mills denims into garments!
    The Whittaker pinafore is a beautiful pattern indeed.
    Thanks,
    Maaike

    Maaike on
  • Maaike they look fabulous! Now all you have to do is make your own jeans forever and ever and you’ll be forever sorted! Closet Case patterns are awesome! I’ve used both the Ginger and Morgans for my daughter because sadly I’m out of the current sizing they are drafted to. The cone denim, I’m so grateful to you for stocking this! It is the best denim for jeans and just so handy to know that we can get it here in Australia – I’ve bought the s-gene and then ordered some burgundy from the states which still hasn’t arrived. I’m thrilled you’ve got colours now! I use a folded piece of scrap denim to even the foot when going over the thicker seams and yes, a hammer will be one of the handiest tools to have when making jeans. Love the idea for a leather patch. It just finishes it off nicely!

    Tamara Kowald on
  • Maai – congratulations on your first pair of jeans – they look great! Like you I’ve recently finished my first pair of Morgan Boyfriend jeans by Closet Case Patterns and did Heather Lou’s clear, practical and helpful online jeans course. You feel so empowered after making your very own jeans.

    I wanted to reassure you and others that doing a zipper fly with Heather Lou’s great online instructions is fine – she breaks it down clearly step by step. I also wanted to ensure that you and other newbie jeans sewers know about two of Heather Lou’s great tips for sewing jeans:
    (i) buy a Jean A Ma Jig aka Hump Jumper to put under your sewing foot to bring it to level of bulky jeans seams, Costs peanuts – available widely incl Amazon – and SO useful. If you can, go for the broad v shaped two thickness one – gives you more options for different seam thicknesses
    (ii) hammer the really thick/bulky seam joins with a hammer first – makes sewing and especially topstitching SO much easier. I did this through piece of fabric to ensure I didn’t mark the denim.

    Last but not least, I’ve just finishing up my second Morgan jeans in Cone Mills loomstate denim – thanks for stocking this high quality denim. Even tho I’d made one pair of Morgans already, I still did initial basted seam version in the Cone Mills to check the fit and it was good to do, as the loomstate denim has somewhat tighter weave.

    Now that you’re confident sewing and topstitching denim, you may want to try Merchant & Mills wonderful Whittaker pinafore in denim – great to apply all those techniques you learned from Heather Lou to this pattern. This pattern has beautiful finishing and is great in denim. On my upcoming sewing list is another Whittaker in the lovely salmon Cone Mills loomstate denim you stocked last year.

    Thank you so much again for your high quality fabrics, and sew on!

    Kind regards
    Kate

    Kate Smallwood on

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