If you are picturing the soft, cosy jumpers you reach for on a chilly morning, you are close, but french terry has its own quiet magic.
French terry fabric for sewing is the cross-seasonal cousin of sweatshirt fleece. It is a knit with loops on the wrong side and a smooth face on the right side. This gives it natural warmth without the bulk of a heavy fleece. When made with natural fabrics, it is breathable, soft, and just the right weight and warm to take you from a cool summer night to autumn mornings.
In this guide, we will dive into why french terry is the ultimate comfort fabric and how to sew it into pieces you will never want to take off.
Understanding French Terry
Looped pile structure
The secret is in the loops. Unlike fleece, which is brushed to be fuzzy, french terry keeps its loops intact. This creates a texture that is absorbent and moisture wicking. Originally, it was used for towels. It traps a layer of air against your body to keep you warm, but allows excess heat to escape so you do not overheat.
Breathability
If you choose a french terry in natural fibres, the fabric will be breathable and the garment will be a joy to wear.
Because it is not as dense as fleece, french terry is perfect for transitional weather. It is the fabric you want for a spring hoodie, a summer evening beach cover up, or a layering piece in winter.
French Terry Varieties
Natural Fibres
We only stock french terry in natural fibres. Some are 100% cotton, others have a few percentages of elastane added to provide extra stretch. Maaidesign also stocks a colllection of french terry knit fabrics that are 100% Australian made, from growing the cotton to knitting the fabric. These fabrics use Good Earth Cotton.
Fun Prints
See You At Six offers a stunning range of french terry fabrics with fun prints. They launch a new collection 2 to 3 times a year. (The fantastic quality of these fabrics is well known to our customers, so these fabrics sell out fast.)
Weight variations
Lightweight, 200 to 240 gsm: Great for a variety of projects like t-shirts, summer shorts, baby clothes and hoodies and tracksuit pants.
Medium to heavyweight, 250 gsm and above: Perfect for hoodies, joggers, and cardigans when you want extra warmth.
Browse our French terry collection to see the different weights we offer.
Why French Terry is Perfect for Comfort Wear
Softness
It is smooth on the outside, soft and loopy on the inside. It feels dry and comfortable against the skin.
Versatility
French terry is stable. It does not roll like cotton jersey, and it is not as thick as fleece. This makes it incredibly versatile. It is suitable for a wide range of projects, from dresses all the way to loungewear.
Sewing Techniques for French Terry
Cutting and layout
Pre wash: It is cotton based, so it will shrink. Wash it first.
Nap: Even though it is not velvet, the loops can have a direction. Cut all your pattern pieces running in the same direction to be safe.
Seam finishes
Needle: Use a ballpoint or jersey needle, size 80/12 or 90/14.
Stitch: Use a lightning bolt stitch or a narrow zig zag. Alternatively, if you prefer to sew with a straight stitch using the elastic Maraflex thread is a great option.
Overlocker: If you have an overlocker (serger), french terry is a dream to sew. Adjusting the differential feed will keep the seams from waving, so test it first.
Project Ideas
1. A simple jumper (beginner)
We're huge fans of the Sloan Sweatershirt by Named Clothing, as it is quick and easy to sew. The darts at the front add a sophisticated and stylish detail.
2. The Classic Hoodie (Intermediate)
A hoodie in french terry is a wardrobe staple. It is lighter than a store bought fleece hoodie, making it perfect for layering under a denim jacket.
We love the Fritzi pattern by Fibremood, a classic unisex design.
3. The Sweater Dress (Intermediate)
Because French terry has some structure, it works beautifully for a tunic or sweater dress. Pair it with leggings for a cosy winter outfit.
Pattern Suggestion: The Lola Dress by Victory Patterns.
For more pattern options, check out our collection of sewing patterns for jumpers and cardigans.
Discover French Terry
If comfort and style are what you are after, french terry is a wonderful place to start. Shop French terry at MaaiDesign.
We stock matching ribbing for all our french terry fabrics so you can get a professional finish.
We have a curated range of colours, from classic greys and navys to vibrant seasonal hues. We dispatch fast, one to two days, and offer personal support. If you are unsure about weight or matching ribbing, just ask.
