Using the direction of stretch to your advantage
Match your stretch % to your pattern
Consider the amount of stretch (and recovery) in your bamboo fabric against your intended pattern. The higher the percentage of stretch (overall) in your material, the more firm it will feel against your body and vice versa.
Using a t-shirt as an example, the Rio Ringer t-shirt by True Bias is a close form fitting tee. To achieve this look we would recommend the “heavy” bamboo jersey knit fabric from MaaiDesign (50% crossgrain, 30% lengthwise). This is because the fabric has a high degree of stretch in both directions, particularly lengthwise (along the grain) which helps the fabric hold this shape.
Alternatively, the Briar T-shirt by Megan Nielson is a more loose fitting style. To achieve this look, a bamboo jersey knit fabric with less stretch lengthwise, would help the material sit away from the body in a more draped/loose effect. We would recommend the regular jersey bamboo fabric (50% crossgrain, 20% lengthwise).
Cut your pattern pieces according to greatest direction of stretch
The direction of greatest amount of stretch for a knit fabric is always the crossgrain. When laying out your pieces for cutting, take into consideration where you will need the garment to stretch the most and align your pattern accordingly.
Continuing with our t-shirt example, around the torso or trunk of the body is generally where you will need the greatest amount of stretch. Placing the greatest amount of stretch in this direction enables the shirt to pull in and ‘hug’ your body.
Understanding in which direction a garment needs the greatest amount of stretch is particularly useful when cutting out materials for patterns that have panels, inserts, and other features (think gussets), that may require stretch in different directions to other pieces.
Cut out fabric with a rotary blade
Stretch knit fabrics have a lot in built movement. When it comes to cutting, the less movement the material experiences, the greater the accuracy of your pattern pieces (and hence the final fit of your garment).
I use a 28mm rotary cutter, an A2 cutting mat and paper weights (whatever is handy) when cutting out knit bamboo fabrics. The small rotary cutter is perfect for tight curves as well as long stretches, and with new blades (I switch out for new blades every second project) minimal pressure is required.
How to sew a bamboo jersey knit fabric (without an overlocker)
Use the correct needle
Using the incorrect needle for a knitted material leads to holes and skipped stitches. Using the correct rounded-tipped needle, pushes the fibres to either side, preserving the integrity of the material and resulting in perfect stitching.
We recommend jersey or ball point needles when working with our knit bamboo fabrics. The lighter the fabric, the lower the needle size and vice versa.
Universal needles are not recommended as despite being a ‘jack of all needles’ they can still cut fibres instead of moving them aside.
Stitch length and stitches
When using a regular sewing machine you have several options:
Set the stitch length between 2.5-3mm and the ‘zig’ width to 0.5mm. This slight zig zag stitch creates a small amount of ‘give’ in the line of stitching. A wider ‘zag’ might be necessary for seams that experience a lot of stress.
This stitch builds in the zig zag in what looks like a straight stitch but is actually on a slight diagonal. Use a 4mm stitch length with 1mm width ‘zag’.
Another stitch that looks straight and slightly wider than usual. This is because each ‘step’ is covered three times to build in the stretch. This stitch looks professional but takes longer to produce and 3x more thread. I reserve this stitch for top stitching on places that are going to take a lot of beating ie. necklines, cuffs, hems.
Use a walking foot (if you have one)
The feed dogs or ‘teeth’ under the sewing foot push the bottom fabric along as you sew. Because bamboo jersey knit fabrics stretch, the fabric on the bottom can get pushed through at a different speed to the top fabric. What started out as a matching side seam, can push out and become two different lengths! A walking foot has its own teeth to push through the top layer at the same rate as the bottom.
A walking foot is a great investment as it works especially well for stretch, cotton jersey fabric, lycra fabric, delicate fabrics, and fabrics with a pile such as velour. They are also useful for double gauze fabric and quilting where there are many layers of material to move through the sewing machine.
Stabilise areas under tension
Necklines, shoulder seams and hems are areas that are put under large levels of stress either in putting on the garment or are critical seams from which the garment hangs.
Load bearing seams
Shoulder seams often carry most of the weight of a garment. To prevent sagging or the seam stretching out over time, stabilise these seams use a clear elastic sewn into the seam from the wrong side of the fabric. Consider attaching the elastic to the back pattern piece so that when you press the shoulder seam towards the back, the elastic is hidden and won’t catch on your skin.
Stabilising load bearing seams improves the longevity of your garment.
Reinforce areas of intense stretch
Necklines and hems are susceptible to large forces in short bursts. Topstitching with triple stitch reinforces these areas so that the main seam line isn’t taking all the stress.
Hemming options for knit bamboo fabric
Use a stretch twin needle
Stabilise the hem with iron on stretch interfacing and then use a stretch specific twin needle to create a professional looking finish. This finish must be sewn from the correct side of the garment.
Adding stretch interfacing minimises the issue of ‘tunnelling’ caused by tension issues. Alternatively, you can adjust the tension on your bobbin case and forgo the interfacing.
(You may need to consult your machine manual to thread the second spool correctly.)
Use triple stitch
As explained above, triple stitch is a reinforcing stitch that is durable and looks like a single stitch line at a pass.
Use a band or cuff
To create a band or cuff finish, use either the self-fabric or a ribbing fabric folded double and attached to edge of the garment. This method is used particularly in making jumpers, cardigans, and hoodies.
Forgo hemming and use the raw edge
A bamboo jersey knit does not fray, so you can leave the edges raw if you prefer that look.
Buy this fabric online in Australia at MaaiDesign.