Pattern: Hudson Pants by True Bias
Fabric: 1.5m of Denim from Art Gallery Fabrics
I finally made a pair of pants for myself! And I'm pretty happy!
You see, I've been wanting a loose fitting pair of pants since last summer, and I simply could not find one in the stores. Because of my pear shape none of them would fit properly. If they had to fit over my hips, they would be too wide at the waist.
Because of this, I would have to adjust any pants pattern and I wasn't sure if it would then all still look ok. (I've had a few failures with skirts) But I put my fear aside and decide to just try it.
I had this version of the Moji Pants from Seamwork Magazine stored on my Pinterest page for a while and instantly loved the design so I bought the pattern. To get some inspiration, I went googling for examples of Moji pants made by other bloggers.
Any sensible person would have read the reviews first but I was impatient. Big mistake! Most of the blogs I came across were not very positive: too tight around the calves, can't fit feet through, too low at the back etc. These are quite significant issues that I would not expect from the designers behind Collette patterns.
So I made a muslin first in some horrible bright blue second-hand fabric.
My husband let out a sigh of relief once he realised I was not planning on of ever wearing these in public.
The experiences of other bloggers turned out to be true for me too, I could not even fit my feet through the end of the pants!! Not to mention it was really tight around my calves. I tried to fix it by restitching at 3/8" seam allowance instead of the recommended 5/8" (why so much seam allowance anyway??) but it was still way too tight.
The fit at the waist looked perfect though, until I sat down and the back barely covered my backside! I really didn't like that, so off to plan B.
I made Hudson pants instead.
What had I been thinking? I have made these pants for the kids with great success so I knew it was a good pattern.
As this pattern is originally designed for knit fabrics, it is recommended to make it 2 or 3 sizes too big for wovens. I opted for 2 sizes and made a size 12, but adjusted the waist to a size 10. I made another muslin first.
The pants are designed for a person that is 165cm tall. I am 13cm taller than that, but I have a long upper body so I added 10cm length.
The fit was much better, not low at the back! But it was too tight still at the calves so I ended up widening them a bit. At my thighs however, they look a bit like horse riding pants, so I took about 1cm out either side.
So I would suggest you just make them 3 sizes too big, which will leave you room to bring things in where you want to.
I did like the pockets of the Moji pants so I used the Moji pockets but the rest is all Hudson.
I thought a long time about whether or not to put elastic in the cuffs but I am glad I did. Once I stitched those 2 lines over the elastic, the fabric became very gathered and I like that effect.
Just make sure that you don't tighten the elastic too much as the cuffs will tend to ride up.
Threading the cord through the little tunnel in the waist was a bit of pain (you know when your safety pin opens up about 5cm from the end so you have to start all over again, grrr) and the cord turned out a bit too short but I'll fix that another time... maybe.
These pants are super comfy, and light weight.
I've already made a second pair in rayon, but that's for another blog post!